PUTTING A DATE
TO FASHION
1850s: Crinolines. Coats replaced by large shawls folded into a triangle.
1860s: Shorter crinoline, more oval. Poke bonnet, hair in ringlets.
Flat bowlers for men
1870s: Folds draped across pleats; glossy fabrics with dull; silk with velvet; like upholstery and curtains. Manteau and fontange of late Baroque period reappear as bustle dress and capote hat i.e. looped- up dress and high headdress.
Bustle disappeared for a time in 1876 but skirts were still caught up behind and wrapped tightly round the lower part of the body, making it very difficult to move. Buttons down the front of the bodice.
1880: Bustle reappeared for a time, with tailored jacket. Skirts became looser and fuller and the bustle finally vanished in 1890. Boater hats came into fashion for men (for several decades) and later for women. 1890s: Skirts smooth in front with fullness at the back. Sleeves widest at the armhole to emphasize shoulders. Leg of mutton sleeves and hour glass silhouette of 1825 returns.
1895: New corset eliminated the abdomen and shifted the figure upwards and backwards, creating an S-shaped sway-back figure. High neck dress, except for evening. Trumpet shaped panelled skirt flaring out to hem. Also rather severe skirts with jacket and highly trimmed shirt blouse.
1900s: Typical Edwardian lady wore a simple skirt, tightly belted with a high necked frilly blouse with long sleeves, gathered at the shoulder, and a boater hat. Huge hats for formal occasions. Low necks for evening wear only. Men in high buttoning three piece suits with top hat or low bowler.
1910s: Trumpet skirt hemline turned in to form hobble Then dramatic change around the time of the first world war when clothes became looser with protruding abdomens - Japanese kimono styles with sleeves as extensions of the dress. Higher waist line, no corsets. Lower part of dress was sheath style with slit front. Evening dresses had mermaid trains. Towards the end of the decade skirts became shorter, showing legs.
1920s: Straight lines, hanging from shoulders, often sleeveless, short hems, waistline around the hips. Jazz age - flapper style. Eton crop hairstyles, assexual look. Cloche hats.
1930s: Materials cut on the cross, following shape of waist and hips as
far as the knee.. Backless evening dresses with low
decolletage. Wide shoulders. Small hats,, some saucer shaped and worn at an angle. Men in suits, collar and tie, trilby hats; also breeches, plus fours for informal
occasions. 1940s: Uniforms and skimpy rationed clothes during the war/,
Afterwards the reactionary 'new-look1..nipped
in waists, bouffant skirts mid-calf length with masses of material. Men still
in suits, collar and tie